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    How to spot a genuine extra virgin

    The way an olive oil smells the moment you open it tells you almost everything. A genuine extra virgin should smell of fresh grass, tomato, slightly peppery olive leaves. It should never smell ‘greasy’ or rancid — a sign it has gone off.

    The second test is taste. Take a spoonful, hold it at the back of the mouth for a few seconds and draw in air. You’ll feel a gentle pepper at the back of the throat — that’s the polyphenols, the mark of a living, well-kept oil.

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